Experienced by Kimatni D. Rawlins
Suta Ma Black translates to “We are Black” for the Afro-Colombian people of San Basilio de Palenque, founded by South American leader Benkos Bioho, who escaped slavery and led a rebellion of enslaved maroons from Cartagena. In 1603, the Governor of Cartagena arranged a peace treaty since they couldn’t defeat Benkos’ small army and guerrilla tactics. This monumental historical moment occurred more than two hundred years before Colombia achieved independence from Spain. Unfortunately, the King of Spain would later violate that peace agreement, capture the leader, and hang him on March 16, 1621.
One of the most interesting strategies to free themselves from bondage was the Palenquera’s art of braiding hair in the form of maps to help other enslaved maroons escape since they had access and intel from the Spaniards’ houses. Brilliant!
We learned about their ancestral culinary secrets, such as the illustrious coconut cake, and also partook in a traditional ritual customary to both sad and happy melodies. My father, Randi Payton, demonstrated his tribal roots through African drumming and Capoeira. While visiting the village, the Fit Fathers crew put in some rounds to pay homage to National Hero and Palenque boxing champ Antonio Cervantes Reyes, aka Kid Pambelé. To honor his legacy, the Colombian government built a full-size gym and boxing ring for the community to give the kids inspiration and daily exercise.
To communicate beyond the language barrier, they mixed Castilian, Portuguese, English, French, Bantu, and Pingui to create their own language, which is still spoken today in Palenque. It is delivered with a rhythmic cadence that is akin to singing. With a small population of about 1,400 residents today, they live free and are proud of their African heritage and Blackness.
Our goal when traveling nomadically is to continually build new energy with the people and embrace their culture and customs while shedding light. We feel them, and they feel us. Travel wide people while exploring indigenously. Your spirit will thank you.
