The Ethiopian Experience: Trekking the Highlands of Lalibela 

Experienced by Kimatni D. Rawlins

Selam, and welcome to “the origin,” the African nation that Europeans have never colonized. Look up “The Battle of Adwa,” where King Menelik II defeated the Italians in an epic sequence of historical consequence. Finally, after years of research, readings, teachings, and listening to eeggae rhythms epitomizing The Promised Land, I took the requisite steps needed for a transformative Ethiopian experience as part of my 6th Annual Nomadic Journey in Addis Ababa and Lalibela. 

I ventured to Ethiopia for its strength, Abyssinian culture, veggie injera meals, traditional Eskista dance up close, and to breathe with deep spirit from the highlands of Lalibela. I began the excursion upon landing in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia’s capital and largest city. I enjoyed the historical sites, including the National Museum of Ethiopia, Ethiopian National Theatre, Ethnological Museum, the Red Terror Martyr’s Museum, and Menelik Palace in the Entoto Hills. The Historic Kidist Selassie Cathedral is the city’s highest-ranking Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo Church. Sarcastically, I was also looking for freedom-fighting singer Teddy Afro, the Bob Marley of Ethiopia. Listen to any of his classics, and you will become an instant devotee. Trust me!

Of course, I maintained my daily exercise routine by running with local athletes at Addis Ababa Stadium. I rewarded myself afterward with amazing veggie injera dishes (made from teff) with lentils and cabbage at 2000 Habesha Cultural Restaurant. My distant brothers and sisters were seriously kicking it during the culinary outing. If the Ethiopian Eskista dance were adopted globally, the entire world would be fit! In regard to food, remember that the staple for most indigenous cultures is a legume (bean) or grain. The natives include fruits and veggies as a vital part of daily life. In Lalibela, for example, most of the country’s people ar healthy farmers who plant wheat, barley, chickpeas, lentils, and teff. Locals also tend to walk more and use their hands for physical activities, so they stay fit naturally. Rarely did I see any obesity while exploring Ethiopia. Continue to strive towards healthier aspirations for life extension. 

Next up was an immersive trek in the purifying grounds of Lalibela, rightfully christened after Zagwe King Gebre Mesqel Lalibela. This village town, located in the highlands NE of Addis Ababa, is one of the holiest places on earth as Orthodox Christians journey here consistently to give thanks and praise at the 11 medieval, monolithic, rock-hewn churches with the Church of Saint George representing as the most renowned and the trademark of Lalibela. Though, Bet Medhane Alem is the largest of them all. It’s breathtaking seeing these wonders while wondering how they were carved using just chisels, axes, and other hand tools 900 years ago. Walking from church to church was excellent for the body as well. 

The days that followed, I went hiking with a local guide to witness the habits of the countrymen and women. My first exploration was a trek up Ashene Mountain to ascend to a higher, planar dimension where the birds fly free. It is extraordinary that an entire community of families, animals, and farmers live atop Lalibela’s third-highest mountain in mostly traditional Tukel houses and survive by cultivating the land. Impressive were the young kids and elderly whisking by me with ease since this is their usual routine, and in sandals at that! Afterward, I ate at Benabeba while gazing at the magnificent sunset over the landscape. Lalibela, I shall return soon come. 

Since I love Roots Rock Reggae, I also ventured to Ethiopia to study the correlation between the Jamaican Rastas and Haile Selassie I, who was the Emperor of Ethiopia until 1974. You will hear verses of the King of Kings, The Promised Land, and The Chapel recited in almost every cultured reggae singer or group’s music since the early 1970s. Many, like Bob Marley, have even used the words of Haile’s speeches in their lyrics.

One of my interviews was with an Ethiopian Ras who had a unique perspective on the Power of the Trinity (Selassie, Garvey, and Melchizedek). Ebenezer took me to notable sites, including the Historic Kidist Selassie Cathedral, where the 20th-century Emperor’s throne and body reside. The energy was indeed intense. But depending on which Ethiopian local you speak with, you will receive a diverging viewpoint on the late Emperor’s reign. Selassie ruled for four decades until dethroned during the 1973 famine, and two years later was smothered in bed at the age of 83. Half the people revered him, and the other half despised his antics, such as senseless killings of Ethiopians for minor infractions.  

As the story goes, Selassie visited Jamaica during a drought, and upon arrival, it rained, which sent Jamaica into a state of jubilation. Marcus Garvey also told fellow Jamaicans to look east for the next Biblical messiah. Coincidence? Not sure, but Selassie, known as Ras Tafari Makonnen before his coronation, became their Jah. He also granted land to the Rastas in Sheshamane (The Promised Land), a 4-hour drive from Addis. Either or, Selassie was a compelling figure worldwide and used his international influence to build Addis Ababa University and other technological infrastructures to help his country prosper. My research continues, and there seems to be no end to understanding from both perspectives. 

Yes, nirvana was strengthened during my African pilgrimage. Ethiopia is an absolute must-visit for anyone seeking higher consciousness regarding man’s destiny. After two weeks of exploring the Indigenous lands, I returned to the U.S. more enlightened than at any other time. Life is for experiencing, so follow your heart, people. 

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